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Fallas de Valencia: Papier-maché, Fire and Fun

I love the Fallas de Valencia.

When I studied at university, I had a Spanish teacher that was so passionate about his culture, he impacted me greatly I started to watch all of Pedro Almodovar’s movies, and I thought it would be amazing and so much fun to tour Spain following the ferias (fairs) of the different Spanish cities.

I have not managed to do it yet. However, I have been to a few parties. Among my favourite ones with with the Gracia and La Merce street parties in Barcelona is the Fallas de Valencia. Easily accessible from Barcelona, you can reach Valencia in less than 3 hours by train.

The Fallas de Valencia

An annual event of creative sculptures in papier-mâché

Fallas de Valencia
2022 – Star Wars

The Fallas de Valencia is an annual celebration held in Valencia, Spain. It takes place from March 15 to 19, coinciding with the feast day of Saint Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters. The Fallas festival is known for its spectacular and highly creative displays of papier-mâché sculptures, called fallas.

Origins

The festival originated in the 18th century, when carpenters in Valencia would celebrate the end of winter by burning old scraps of wood and other materials in bonfires on the streets.

Over time, the celebration evolved into the elaborate and highly competitive event it is today. Each neighbourhood in Valencia has a committee that designs and creates a falla, which can be as tall as several stories high. A jury also selects the best fallas.

There are the bigger fallas and the Children’s fallas designed by and for kids.

The Highlights of the Fallas

There are several things you should not miss when you go to the Fallas de Valencia:

1. The hundreds of Fallas set up all over the city, of course!

Fallas de Valencia
2022 Political caricatures

The Fallas de Valencia are impressive, colourful, intricate and beautiful. They are often satirical, featuring caricatures of political figures, celebrities, and current events in the city’s streets and squares. The sculptures are on display throughout the week, and on the night of March 19, they are set on fire in a spectacular display called La Cremà.

The final night is a bittersweet moment for Valencians, as they bid farewell to their beloved fallas until next year.

The Fallas de Valencia is a unique and colorful celebration that attracts visitors from all over the world. It is recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2016.

I considered snatching a tiny decoration to save it. The thought that they would disappear in a fire shattered my heart. But my Valencian friends were adamantly against it.

2. The “mascletas”

The first time I went to see the Fallas, I did not pay much attention to the mascletas, but they are a big thing.

A mascleta is a pyrotechnic show that happens during the day. They are very intense explosions of gunpowder that will mark you with their deafening sound and the thick smoke they leave in the air. When you witness it, you can feel your heart tremble in your chest at each explosion.

Come early to get a good spot. Last time, we brought drinks and waited in the cold (brrr), but it was worth it. We went to the main mascleta that happened in front of Valencia City Hall Square.

3. The crema

Fallas de Valencia
2022 Archives

The crema is when the Fallas are burned. I first did not believe my ears when I heard the Fallas were to be burned. They are so creative and exquisite. Most of them burn except an adult and a child ninots (falla dolls) that are pardoned on a popular vote and then exhibited in the Fallas museum.

You need to choose which Falla you want to see burning. Last year, we chose one of the tallest ones. They were drowsed in petrol then set on fire. We were very close because we did not want to miss any of it. After waiting for a while, the fire originated. What an experience! The thrill of seeing the sculpture burn, the heat on my skin, the crackling flames, the ashes falling from the sky, and the sound of the firecrackers accompanying the fire. I have never experienced such a thing.

Firefighters were on the scene guarding the fire as well. Even though it was occasionally frighteningly close to the nearby buildings, the flames were always kept under control.

4. The flower offerings to our Lady of the Forsaken

Fallas de Valencia
2022 – Flower offerings to Our Lady of the Forsaken

The flower offerings to the Virgen de los Desamparados (Our Lady of the Forsaken) are one of the most colourful events of the Fallas. 

For two days, thousands of falleros and falleras from different neighbourhoods and delegations from other provinces and regions parade and bring flowers to a gigantic structure of Valencia’s patron saint, in Plaza de la Virgen.

They will gradually shape a colourful mantle whose design varies each year for the Virgin. I have only seen the end results and did not witness the parades, but they say they are also colourful in their own way with people dressed in traditional costumes.

5. The Nit del Foc

The Nit del Foc is one of the most important events of the Fallas de Valencia festival, and it takes place on the night of March 18th, the eve of the festival’s final day. “Nit del Foc” translates to “Night of Fire” in Valencian, the regional language of Valencia.

During the Nit del Foc, the sky over Valencia is illuminated by a magnificent fireworks display for several hours. The fireworks set off from the Paseo de la Alameda, a wide boulevard that runs through the city center. The show is so impressive that it draws thousands of visitors from all over the world.

The fireworks of the Nit del Foc are designed to be incredibly loud and intense. They feature a wide variety of shapes, colors, and effects. It is a real feast for the eyes.

6. The food

Hot and delicious pumpkin buñuelos

Valencia is also the birth home of paella, so do not miss out and have a paella lunch. The best paella of my life was cooked in the streets during the Fallas. It was so delicious, I still think about it to this day.

Also try agua de Valencia. On my last Fallas trip, I was with Valencian friends. The experience is so much better when you are with locals. We had a merienda (a kind of tea break) with agua de Valencia, a cocktail made of freshly squeezed orange juice (Valencia produces some of the best oranges in Spain), cava and different white alcohol. My friend’s aunt had all the white alcohol of her cupboard in hers, lol, and a touch of a secret ingredient. It was soo good we were drinking it like it was juice.

Do not forget to taste pumpkin buñuelos, a deep-fried doughnut with a hole in the middle made with pumpkin. It is an authentic Valencian treat that you can buy at street stands. They are sprinkled with sugar and served hot. A good address is Bunyols Bienve,  Av. del Regne de València, 22, 46005 València.

7. And the rest

Since the Fallas are a festival, there will undoubtedly be music stands, open bars, and a throng of people walking around. It is also enjoyable to simply stroll around the crowded streets while holding a drink in your hand, taking in the festive atmosphere.

For the full program of the Fallas, please click here.

For the map of the Fallas, click here.