I started my Italian trip in Rome. Now it is time to see what to do in Naples and Sorrento for my next six days.
Get inspired!
After three wonderful days in Rome, we took the train to Naples with Trenitalia. The trip lasted two hours and cost 19 Euros per person. Quite good value if you ask me.
Day 1 – From Rome to Naples
At 11:30, we arrived at Naples Central Station. Here starts the chaos! Naples has nothing to do with elegant and classical Rome.
On the contrary, it is dirty, crowded and disorganized. During my trip planning, my Neapolitan friend cautioned me that the city is not always safe, particularly due to pickpockets. So we were careful leaving the station.
Our apartment was situated in Via Duomo, an excellent location close to the old city centre. The apartment was very modern and stylish. And the owners… They were so wonderful. Read on to know more why.
I want neapolitan pizzas
When you travel, you need to prioritise on what you want. At 2 pm in Naples, I want pizzas. Naples is meant to be the birth city of pizzas. You know the saying, when in Naples…
We dropped our luggages and headed straight away to Di Matteo, on Via Dei Tribunali, 94. Di Matteo is one of Naples’ top pizza restaurants. There was a line outside, but fortunately for us hungry folks, they had free tables upstairs. We waited briefly before they took our order. But those pizzas were the best I have ever have in my life. Each one cost about 7 euros. They were incredible, tasty and some of them won awards.
What to do in Naples besides eat?
We walked around the city and went up the Castel Sant’Elmo for a view of Naples. We struggled to locate the funicular so took the stairs up and up and up until we discovered that… the castle is closed on Tuesdays. That was amateurish of me to not check the opening hours.
We could still admire the surrounds’ vista. We stopped for granitas, a typical italian shaved ice dessert on our way back. The sweet crushed ice was more than welcome under the summer heat.
In the evening, we dined on delicious local products: fresh and fragrant tomatoes, mozzarella di buffala, basil, Italian wine and ham. Simple things of life bought from a local deli shop.
Day 2 – Naples to Pompeii and back to Naples
He snatched her purse!
The day after, we prepared to visit Pompeii,one of my Dad’s lifelong dream. But close to the train station, drama.
A man riding a scooter attempted to cross the zebra crossing while the light was green for pedestrians. A helmet fully hid his face. He snatched my mum’s purse. I spotted him because I felt his gaze on me and because he seemed off to me at the time. But my bag was solidly hung across my chest. I did not think he would target my mum until I heard her cry.
We met some policemen on motorbikes but their faces were very expressive. They won’t catch him. We filed a report at the police station.
A traveller’s worst nightmare abroad
Her passport was inside which was the most awful part of it all and the worst thing that could possibly happen to a globe-trotter and a non-European citizen in Europe.
To make a long story short, we spent the whole morning at the police station accompanied by our gracious landlord. He left work to be our official translator.
His wife lobbied our home embassy to convince them to give my mum a new passport and allow her to keep travelling. Yes, because when you are on an emergency passport, you are only allowed to go home. She was only halfway her European trip. She still had adventures waiting for her in Barcelona.
We went to Pompeii anyway
An experience like this ruins your holiday if you let it. I convinced my parents to go to Pompeii as planned. But the mood was gloomy. The toughest part was to come back to the crime scene, the train station.
Eventually, we board our train. Naples to Pompeii takes around thirty minutes and is cheap. The day admission to the archeological site costs 11 Euros. If you want to keep on travelling, say to Sorrento, they have luggage lockers. What a good idea to save time!
I advise you to get an official audio guide from the site rather than from a third party. For a few extra euros more, you can easily follow the different points of interest.
Visiting the well conserved ruins
Thanks to Pompeii’s excellent conservation, you can easily envision imagine what life was like in the city. I was really impressed. One of the most interesting relics where the mummified bodies. They have been petrified by lava.
Lunch at Pompeii was alright. Too expensive and not authentic enough if you go to the places between the train station and the main gate. I cannot recommend anything here.
Day 3 Naples to Sorrento
On day 3, we left for Sorrento, a stunning seaside town overlooking the Bay of Naples. The town is also the birthplace of limoncello, the famous lemon liqueur. They have a lemon garden where you can taste their homemade limoncello. Wandering around and window shopping were incredily relaxing after the theft experience in Naples.
We had our first lunch at La Tavola di Lucullo, Via Rota 51 Sorrento, one of the cities best table. The pasta I ordered was excellent and the staff hyper friendly and fun. There is not much to see in Sorrento. The city is better for soaking up La Dolce Vita atmosphere and unwinding.
2022 update: it seems that the restaurant is now closed. Pity!
Day 4 – Sorrento to Amalfi Coast
The following day, we travelled to the Amalfi Coast via bus. We paid 7 euros for full-day tickets on the public bus, SITA bus. Nobody wanted to drive.
Instead, we planned to spend the day travelling from Sorrento to Salerno hopping on and off at each town along the way.
With retrospect, renting a car would be more exciting to experience the Amalfi Coast. It will allow you to explore at your own pace.
The Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast is famous for its picturesque seaside towns, cliffs and beach. The stunning coastline is dramatic with its winding roads following sheer cliffs. In 1997, it became a UNESCO heritage with its unspoiled natural beauty harmoniously fused with human activity.
Some of the most beautiful towns on the Amalfi Coast include Positano, Amalfi Town, Ravello and Praiano. Our first stop was Positano.
On the road exploring the Amalfi Coast
Honestly, it did not always feel safe to be on the road even with skilled drivers. The traffic was insane. The winding roads as mentioned followed abrupt cliffs. They were driving fast.
If you are prone to road sickness, abstain. I spent the whole trip, eyes closed, praying not to let my stomach’s content escape. My neighbour was not so lucky. He threw up all the way to Positano.
Our first stop, Positano
We got off at Positano, the most picturesque town of the Amalfi coast as planned.
We took a leisurely stroll through the town’s steep and narrow streets. Then had coffee and lunch. I don’t have any special recommendation. I prefer to not say anything than talk about a place that did not impress me.
Our highlight of the town was the Church of Saint Maria Assunta of Positano. I did not expect such an imposing and magnificent building in a seaside town. This is why I travel, to break prejudices.
We bought lemon pasta to cook at home. It was super delicious with a bit of olive oil and garlic.
Day 5 – Back to Naples
We had not seen much of Naples at that point.
Our misfortune prevented us from fully enjoying the city. I find it inexplicable that the local authorities do nothing despite being aware of that plague hitting the tourism industry. A little bit like in Barcelona where I live.
However, in Naples, learn from us. Be careful with the pickpockets. Funny enough, our landlords said that their Dad got his wallet snatched in Valencia, in Spain. Haha!
More pizzas in Naples
As soon as we reached in Naples, we went to Da Michele, Via Cesare Sersale, 1/3, famous for being one of the oldest and best pizzerias in the world. Yes, we have our priorities straight.
The restaurant lived up to its reputation: there was a massive line outside. You arrive, get a number ad wait in line. The eatery has a canteen-like appearence with its bare decor. It took our waiter some time before taking our order. But the choice was easy. We either order marinara or margherita. We got both.
They don’t serve wine, only coke, beer or water. With their thin base, the pizzas were delicious. I can understand why they are so popular.
The service
The service and the waiting staff, on the other hand, left much to be desired. One waitress chased our neighbours away from their seats. Then she pushed our table against another while we were still seated to create space for new customers. It was quite brutal. I don’t particularly appreciate this way of treating customers!
At the end of our meal, I paid the bill: 25 euros for 3 pizzas and two drinks. Unbeatable! Then our waiter overtly demanded a tip from me. Mister, you have nice pizzas here, but the service definitely requires improvement. I don’t mind tipping but on my own conditions!
Which has the best pizzas?
There is not one place better than the other. I prefer Di Matteo’s pizzas because they have creative and varied pizzas with a lot of toppings. I love generous pizza toppings. Da Michele focuses on mastering the basics.
By that time, we have mostly recovered from our unlucky adventure. We decided to explore more of the city. Naples old town is beautiful with its main square and multiple narrow streets.
There was a pleasant atmosphere coming off the place in the evening. It was good to finally appreciate being in the city.
Day 6 – Naples to Barcelona
Last day. It is time to go home. We completed our gourmet journey at Sfogliatelle Attanasio, in Vico Ferrovia, to try the best sfogliatelle in town, recommended by my Neapolitan friend.
What is this Sfoglia thingy? It is a crisp pastry from Naples that has multiple layers filled with a custard-like mixture and cinnamon. The turnover in Attanasio is fast, sfogliatelle are always fresh and hot straight from the oven. The best way to eat them.
I was surprised by the popularity of baba-au-rhum in Naples. This pastry is one of the city’s sweetest symbols with sfogliatelle. I ate two mini classical ones then licked my fingers to clean them up. The babas were not that delicious. Joking!
Ending our Italian trip
Our Italian trip had been full of adventures and emotions. I am not sure if in the end we got the relaxation we longed for, but we were definitely not bored.
We also managed to get home, in Barcelona, together. We left nobody behind and were recovering to be ready for our next trip! Where? I don’t know yet.