So why Panama? Panama because I had been dreaming of a Caribbean trip since the Spanish total lockdown. I wanted to go to a country where I had a friend I could turn to turn to in case of problems like COVID ones. Panama was it. I left with my plus one. And it turned out to be a great trip.

This post is an idea of what to do and see when you visit Panama in 10 days.

Day 1: Travelling to Panama City

The flight and our COVID precautions

We left Barcelona in the morning with a stopover in Paris Charles de Gaulles. Then we travelled for what seemed forever. After 2 years of confinement and travel restrictions, a long haul flight was a challenge. Sitting for long hours with the masks was hard.

We also took a lot of precautions around COVID. Airports are a critical spot. A lot of our friends caught COVID flying. So we used a lot of hand gel, changed FFP2 masks every 4 hours and kept a social distance as much as we could.

A lot more people are back travelling so some airport areas were packed. It was difficult to maintain social distancing all the time. But we made all of these efforts because we did not want to catch the COVID while being far away on just a ten-days holiday.

After landing

In Panama City, it took us a while to pass immigration at Tocumen International Airport. It seemed contradictory to queue with all of the other passengers so close to each other and yet to be supposed to keep social distancing because of COVID.

For COVID, visitors needed neither PCR nor antigen. They just needed to provide physical or digital proof of a complete vaccination scheme endorsed by the WHO, EMA and FDA, equal to or greater than 14 days after the last dose.

All of those passengers and the heat were suffocating. When we finally got out, it was dark already and, it was hot and humid. We were in summer. It felt “tropically” good.

My friends picked us up at the airport and took us to our hotel. We were just staying the night, before undertaking the next stage of our travel. As a consequence, we chose an affordable hotel in the new part of the city, the Parador hotel, for around 40 USD per night. That was cheap by Panama’s standards, as we will realise later on.

As soon as we arrived, we settled and we slept, tired from the long trip and the jet lag.

Day 2 & 3: Heading to Bocas del Toro

Visit Panama and start with Bocas del Toro

The day after, we headed to the Bocas del Toro province. A must-see in Panama. The Bocas del Toro province is partly on Panama’s mainland and partly a chain of islands on the Caribbean Sea.

We flew to get there. With only two weeks to spend on the holidays, we preferred to spend the bucks $ and save some travelling time and energy. It was one of the most expensive internal flights I have ever paid: 220 Euros. But ok, we made our choice. Only Air Panama was flying to Bocas del Toro, I guess this partly explains the high price.

We left from a different airport, Albrook International Airport. Our lovely friends drove us there but it was possible to get an Uber in Panama City. Uber was the safest way we found to move around Panama City. It was quite cheap too.

The plane was very small but we had a great view of the landscape from the sky. I felt a bit claustrophobic because it was so tight and the luggage holder so low. But we reached Bocas’ airport on Isla Colon in 1 hour, safe and sound. We got off the plane and waited for our bags.

A policeman and his dog were going through them, I guess in search of drugs. It was a bit intimidating especially when the dog turned several times around one of our bags. Huh?! After the inspection, we could finally grab our belongings and head out.

 

The first afternoon in Bocas Town

Nobody picked us up here so we walked to town. It was not very far. It takes approximately 15 minutes to reach the town centre. We slowly acquainted ourselves with Bocas del Toro or BocasTown, discovering a laid back and colourful Caribbean town exactly as I expected, enchanted.

Our first stop was to buy some snacks and some water in one of the supermarkets in town. Then lunch. One agent at the airport recommended to us a restaurant called El Pirata: a local restaurant that offers “the same food as the others but this is one is local and has better prices”. Good argument. We decided to try it out.

After lunch, we took a water taxi to our accommodation for the next two nights: Bambuda lodge in Isla Solarte. I hate haggling so I was relieved to see that tariffs for determined trips are set. They are also displayed on boards outside the water taxi station, in the centre of town. So no risk of being taken advantage of.

 

Chilling in Isla Solarte

Isla Solarte is for chilling. There is not much to do on the island. We enjoyed our eco-lodge and its facilities reading books, soaking up the sun and admiring the sunset. The island is also reputed for its snorkel and scuba diving spots.

On the second day, we hiked to the far west side of the island, to Hospital Point. You can check out more hike possibilities at the reception of the lodge. We did not stay long enough to see if it was possible to do so.

I did the hike barefoot. So did a few others. It rained the day before so getting muddy was fun but not so comfortable in some parts. The hike was also a great opportunity to observe tropical plants and spot some red frogs.

The red frogs are cute but highly poisonous (hence the bright red colour). They will kill any predator that ingests them. This specie of red frog is specific to Central America. We were lucky to see them. It will be the only opportunity we had during the travel.

Hospital point is truly breathtaking with its white sandy beach (quite small though) and warm turquoise water. The one piece of advice here is to not leave your belongings unattended as you are unlikely to see them again. Apart from that, it is a beautiful spot where you can snorkel. Some guests spotted a lot of sea life and even some small sharks the day before.

After our beach swim, we returned by water taxi for 2 USD each. The guided tour and the return by boat were organised by the lodge. If you go by yourself, the way is quite easy and you can book a water taxi yourself at the reception.

Day 4: From Isla Solarte to Isla Bastimentos

Visit Panama and check Isla Bastimentos

Isla Solarte can be used as a base to explore the other islands of the archipelago. But we decide to chill there for a couple of days and then move to Isla Bastimentos to change the scenery.

I wanted to stay in an over-the-water bungalow. It looked amazing and it will be an experience of a lifetime. Our preferred place in Bocas was fully booked so we chose to stay at Eclypse de Mar.

We booked a water taxi from the lodge. It was so uncomfortable because it started to rain harshly. The cold drops were hitting us in the face. We were laughing to mask our discomfort. We got soaked despite our rain jackets and became jealous of this one lady who used her umbrella as a shield and came out of the boat completely dry. A very smart idea.

We checked in our bungalow, admired the decor and the views from our windows and headed back out to lunch. The reception advised us of a local place to eat: Kecha. It was situated across Eclypse de Mar on Old Bank but we had to take a boat for 1 USD per person. For lunch, I had Pescado a lo macho.

Exploring Old Bank

Kids were playing on the only main street. The community is predominantly Afro-Caribbean and speaks a language unknown to us. It was not Spanish.  Our reception explained that it was guari-guari, a patois derived from the Jamaican language.

Everywhere we went, we felt safe. We crossed paths with two rough-looking characters but most people we met were smiley and sweet. Blatant salsa music was coming out of a bar. I have heard the best salsa music here in Panama as a lot of people listen to it loudly.

Apart from that music, the town was sleepy. It had colourful wooden houses and sheet metal roofs. It was tropical and charming. We were wondering how to get a water taxi back when a man approached us to offer his services. We said yes but wanted a few drinks before heading back to the hotel and sat down for some local beers and pressed fruit juices at Lysset.

We have had fresh tropical fruit juices all along the trip. They were so yum entirely made of fresh fruit and without sugar. Mango, pineapple, and passion fruit were the best to me, on their own or mixed. I could not get enough of them.

We also fell in love with patacones or fried green plantains. They accompany most dishes here. We loved them so much, that the first week we ordered them as additional side dishes or as snacks with our drinks. No wonder I put on a couple of kilos hahaha.

Back to the lodge, we went for a dip straight out from our sundeck. The bungalow had an open floor from which you can feed the fish. While I was throwing food, a big humanoid one with blue eyes came from under the water and passed by smiling :). It was my biggest catch ever.

Then we waited for the sunset but it had been raining so the sky was cloudy. Pity. For once, the sky was, literally, our limit and it was not visible. Oh :(.

I skipped dinner. I was too full with lunch. But Mr E tried the restaurant of the hotel. We spend the rest of the evening enjoying our bungalow, reading with the sweet splash of the water coming from the windows.

Day 5: Isla Bastimentos

That day we woke up early to try to see the sunrise. We were lucky to have the window of our bedroom on the open sea. But once again with the previous rainy day, grey clouds covered the horizon. No sunrise.

We were to spend the day on the island and use the free activities offered by the lodge but it rained a lot. So after breakfast, we just chilled… again.

The water was high and dark and not friendly. I did not feel like venturing on a kayak or a paddleboard. I wished I could spot a ray manta from our bungalow’s deck but it did not happen this time either. You cannot command nature.

Taking advantage of a break from the rain, we visited the lodge’s private park trying to spot wild animals but could only see a baby sloth from afar and nothing much. We will try again tomorrow.

We went back to Old Bank and hiked up to “Up in the hill”, for the coffee shop and chocolate farm tour but both times we tried, it was closed. The sad smiley face especially because it is a long walk up there. It is better to reserve it in advance. The lodge can do that for you.

Wizard Beach

We randomly decided to go to Wizard Beach. The path was indicated. It said that the beach was reachable in twenty minutes. They forgot to say with good weather and good walking shoes. And even then I doubt that it only takes 20 minutes to get there for the average walker.

That day, it probably took us more than one hour to cross the jungle to the beach. We were wearing flip flops. There was no warning that the path was going to be wet, very muddy, and as such slippery. Quite dangerous at times. I don’t know why we did not turn back. I guess it is one of those moments when you decide something and you just needed to see it through.

I finally took my flip flops off and walked half of the way barefoot. It felt safer but took longer as my skin did not have much grip. I hooked myself to branches and wild plants paying a lot of attention to where I was putting my feet and what I am touching. It was tough.

The girl in front of me gave up and retraced back. At one point, I was stuck in the middle of the mud not knowing where to go and another woman with good hiking boots passed by grabbed my arm and, without a word, helped me through. She dropped me on the safe side and continued. Thanks. And thanks to that travelling camaraderie I like so much.

We kept on walking for what seemed forever to reach that beach. I was starting to get frustrated. With all the trouble I was going through risking tetanus and tropical bugs, it better be good.

We finally arrived. An outstanding, secluded and wild beach with quite rough water. I did not dare go in but it did not seem to deter the lady who helped me and her friends.

We sat down on the sand and admired the landscape, already thinking about the way back. We did not want to be caught by the dark on this path. Thankfully, the way back was easier for some reason.

More drinks at Lysset watching kids fishing on a pier then we took a water taxi back home.

It is possible to hike to Red Frog Beach from Wizzard Beach. There are a lot of excursions and activities that can be done in Isla Bastimentos and around (Cayo Zapatilla, Isla Carenero. etc.). They seem to be organised by the same people. Enquiring at your hotel reception is sometimes enough to know what is going on.

One thing I missed and I would have liked to do during our stay here was to discover Indian culture by visiting Quebrada Sal.  When we deliberately skipped some islands. This is something that I completely missed but would have been informative and educational.

Day 6: Bocas Town

On the morning of Day 6, we visited our local park again. The same baby sloth was moving unhurriedly on his branch. We headed to the pond and threw a few pallets to the caimans. At first, nothing…then the water moved slowly showing two longs heads. They came out to eat. I thought it was funny that the spot we were on was used as a yoga studio. What if you miss a step and fall into the water??? The caimans were too small to swallow an adult I guess. Still. We also saw some turtles in the water fighting for the same food.

Then, one last dip in the water. The sun finally came out the day we were leaving. Typical…But it was time to go. So back on the boat. I have never had as many boat trips as on this vacation. We checked in our B&B, Cat in the cup in Bocas Town and then wandered around. Someone recommended us a local and affordable eatery, Tom Restaurant. We tried it out and it was delicious and cheap.

Bocas Town is not huge and there are not many things to do apart from eating and drinking. But there are a few interesting sights around: the plastic bottle village, Starfish Beach, and Playa Bluff which is more of a surfing beach.

Starfish Beach

From all the spots easily reachable from Bocas Town, we decided to spend the afternoon in Starfish Beach, going by bus. You can also go by boat or rent a bike.

The bus stop is in the main square. We asked people around about it because there is no formal bus stop. There are also no formal bus hours so we waited for forty-five minutes until the bus driver finally decided it was time to go.

I usually fall asleep as soon as I hit any road in a vehicle. So I did not see much of the landscape. What I did notice though was that the driver was driving a tad too fast. But I had my eyes closed so I did not think too much about it. He played some nice bachata songs. It was a consolation.

The final stop was Boca del Draco. Then, we had to walk for twenty minutes on an easy and flat trail to reach Starfish Beach. The way to the Starfish Beach was beautiful. It followed the water under lush tropical vegetation. We were lucky to spot some monkeys and even a baby monkey.

Then we arrived at our destination. I was disappointed. I expected a wild beach full of starfish. That beach was full of shacks selling drinks and seafood. It felt too commercial for my taste but I guess the locals need to also benefit from the tourism. The B&B and lodges we booked all belonged to ex-pats. I bet a lot of businesses in Bocas Town too.

Anyway, past the first moments of surprise, I buy fresh coconut water and Mr E a beer. We might as well enjoy it while here. Then we look for a spot among the crowd. More locals are vacationing here as opposed to the islands where we met islanders and foreign tourists.

Starfishes were hard to find but I finally found one and then another. I made sure to keep enough distance not to disturb them. Here, I am the visitor. I need to respect their environment.

I would also like to ask everyone who sees a wild starfish: please leave it alone. It might make a nice Instagram picture but this is a live being, not a toy. Imagine its suffering if everyone that passes by touches it.

We went back to Bocas Town by boat. Then waited in a bar for our departure time; headed to the airport and, took off to Panama City with the same dog sniffing our bags before being loaded onto the plane.

First encounter with the Casco Viejo

We arrived early enough in Panama City. So we decided to go to the Casco Viejo, the historic centre, for dinner.

It was dark when our uber dropped us in front of the American Trade Hotel. The only spot we knew about in the area.

The Uber driver explained to us that the Casco Viejo is very safe with a lot of policemen patrolling around as the Presidential palace is located here and the place is now very touristic.

I had love at a first sight for the old quarter, a UNESCO Cultural World Heritage Site. It has such a charm with its old colonial buildings and its vibrant atmosphere. It is very romantic too.

We decide to dine at Tantalo after reading the menu. We had been stuffing ourselves with Panamean food full of carbs. I wanted to eat something healthier and they had a few salads that looked delicious.

We took an uber back to the Parador Hotel, our base for the night before heading to the San Blas Islands. And this is the end of Visit Panama in 10 days – Part I.

Find out more about Panama with this second website: https://www.tourismpanama.com/–