In my post about Madeira, I promised you a story about my trip to Mardi Gras in New Orleans (NOLA). Now is the time.
2016 was, for me, the year of the bucket list ticks. On top of my list, I had Mardi Gras in New Orleans. This party is as famous as the Carnivals of Rio or Venice.
I went with a friend who moved to the US. The trip was an opportunity to see her! We planned to spend two days attending Mardi Gras and four days to see the real NOLA away from the madness.
Getting to New Orleans, Louisiana, US
I found a very cheap return flight Barcelona/New Orleans (around 500 Euros) even though I booked it two weeks before departure.
The best part of my flight was the Mississippi view from above. Such a huge river! Those bridges crossing it were impressive too.
I changed some Euros against Dollars at the airport. I do not recommend it. The exchange rate was dreadful, and the commission was exorbitant (18 USD).
The airport shuttle to New Orleans
I took the airport shuttle to the city. It cost 24 USD. To compare, a taxi for the same trip costs around 35 USD.
The bus was an old school kinda vintage bus. I really liked it. It dropped me off at my hostel. It did the same with the other tourists. That was pretty handy.
The driver was pretty chilled and conversational. He gave me some useful information about the area.
Finding an accomodation was the challenge
I stayed at the Marquette Hostel, in a magnificent old building, in a room for 4. It was the only place I could find in a decent enough location to see the parades, and that would not cost me a fortune.
Still…Paying 50 USD for a dorm bed is a bit dear! Thankfully, I only had one roomie! My friend only arrived the day after. The location was perfect, just around the corner from St Charles Avenue, where the Krewe of Bacchus was on.
A krewe is one of the organizations parading during Mardi Gras in New Orleans. Bacchus is among the best krewes. I was so lucky to be there for that!
My first Mardi Gras parade
Bacchus float
All of the floats in the Bacchus krewe were impressive and spectacular, and had a Bacchus theme. What a shock…(sarcasm!) This event was memorable, being my first parade!
One thing to know about Mardi Gras in New Orleans is that people on floats throw beads, toys, and other goodies to the public.
Floats and goodies
That night I waited a while before getting something. I finally caught the eye of someone “well-placed.” The number one secret of surviving and enjoying a Mardi Gras parade is to get connected. Once someone in power – on a float – notices you, he will send over tons of goodies. Or, in my case, one bead. Yeah…
Murphy’s (positive) law helping, I started receiving more beads and cups afterward, which led me to become more ambitious. I now wanted bags of beads, and bam! A football ball, bam! But when I tried to get a teddy bear, nothing! Too much competition. That night was unlucky. I would try again the day after.
Travel experiences
When I was about to sleep, I asked my roomie ” if she also smelt gas. “Is that what the smell is?” “Yes!”
We spoke to the staff. Safety first. “Yes, the pipes are old.” But no, we could not open the windows. Rats could come in. What to do? After a little debate, we decided to risk rats bites and plague over dying gassed.
My friend joined me in the morning. We had breakfast in a typical American dinner, the Trolley stop café. We experienced what could be a scene in an American movie: the enormous pancake that could feed five people, cops eating in a corner, the waitress refilling coffee. This place was great for breakfast and the experience!
Treme wall
Making friends during the Carnival
We planned our route to the B&B back to my dorm. Suddenly a third roomie that arrived during the night offered us a ride after hearing us talk to each other. Awesome!
I love travelling. You never know what happens next, and there is always a feeling of camaraderie among travellers.
Our new friend was a Caucasian American. She married a Native American man and lived in an Indian Reserve. Her husband just died, and she was on a soul-searching trip.
Her soul was so lost we could not find the right direction with the GPS. I am gently kidding. I was very grateful to her for her offer. Eventually, we found our new home for the next few days.
An Englishman studying jazz in Treme
Our host was a middle-aged Englishman studying jazz and living in Treme.
Treme is America’s oldest black neighbourhood and the birthplace of Jazz. I could not dream of a better place to stay.
Yet I apprehended staying in Nola. It was number 7 of the top 30 Murder capitals of America in 2016, according to neighborhoodscout.com. Nothing happened to us, though. The inhabitants were really friendly. They greeted us in the streets.
There was only one dodgy bit on the way home. It was under a bridge between the Old Quarter and Treme – I don’t recall why but when we came back late, we would call an Uber to do that tiny bit of road. Better safe than sorry, they said.
Another funny (and a bit awkward) moment of our trip was that Simon was set on finding us an accommodation during our first days in NOLA. As I mentioned, we organised too late, and most accommodations were either too far or too expensive.
A bed in a bedroom
He offered to install a bed in his room for the two first nights. Our original booking was 25 km away from town. So here we are, the two of us, sleeping in a bed in a perfect stranger’s room.
Ah well, it is the same thing as sharing a mixed dorm. I hope I did not snore. We had so many anecdotes about random events from that trip.
I want to add a disclaimer to this post: when you travel, only do what makes you feel comfortable. We obviously felt safe, but not everyone is as kind as Simon, so be careful on the road and use your best judgment.
Going around the French Quarter
Treme was only 15-minute walk from the French Quarter. And that afternoon, we visited the French Quarter with its colonial architecture. I felt like in a movie – just without the crinoline dress.
Bourbon Street
We walked through the famous Bourbon Street with all the bars, the partying, the drinking, and the voodoo shops. The street where preachers stating being “homosexual” is a sin stood alongside free huggers and the same “homosexuals” (Writer’s note: I am only using this word to describe what was written on the signs. I support freedom of choice and inclusivity).
Such interesting contrasts! I even saw a girl showing her breasts in exchange for trinkets, one of NOLA’s urban myths. I felt uncomfortable. It was a degrading gesture, and it did not look cool to watch at all.
If you want to drink, do not forget your ID. You are in America!
Balconies were decorated with yellow, purple, and green. These are Mardi Gras colours. People were out having fun, dressed up or not.
By the way, if you want to drink during Mardi Gras, do not forget your ID, as I did. We are in the US. Bars will not let you have an alcoholic beverage without showing it.
Before the Orpheus and Proteus parades that night, we visited the Mardi Gras Spot shop to get masks, wigs, and other accessories for our costumes. It is an enormous warehouse full of dressing up items outside the city centre. I found a pink wig and a feather boa. That will do!
Best parades in town during Mardi Gras in New Orleans!
The day after, we woke up at 4 am to see the Bones and skulls parade, a secret parade departing from the Back Street museum.
It is apparently an excellent museum with the world’s biggest collection of New Orleans’ African American masking and processional traditions. We did not have time to visit it.
But this parade gave a more authentic experience to Mardi Gras. We waited in the cold. Suddenly skeletons showed up in the dark. Scary and impressive.
During the parade, we knocked on the neighbours’ doors to “wake them up” literally and spiritually. The parade ended with a speech from the skeletons’ leader on how we should enjoy life and love each other. Inspiring!
The Zulu parade
Then, we saw the Zulus’ parade, the best one for costumes, goodies, and marching bands. We stood beside a family: mum, dad, and their two kids.
Kids were cute. Dad alternatively put them on his shoulder. His secret to getting goodies? Being tall with long arms to catch things faster! Having cute kids also helped.
Under those tough competitive conditions, it had been difficult but not impossible to get stuff. I got a bag of teddies (hurray!), toys etc. The family got two full bin bags of everything. Life is unfair.
People fought over decorated coconut shells while we looked at them bewildered and a bit haugty I recognise. Little did we know! They were THE things to get from the Zulus’ parade. Ah well…
And the Indians?
Our last plan was to see the Indians, another secretive krewe with impressive Indian costumes.
We did not find them. Their parade dates, times and routes are never published in advance, although they tend to gather in the same areas every year.
The Indian krewe is composed of African American who named themselves after Native Indians. Indeed, local Indians accepted Black slaves into their society when they escaped, back in the slavery days. This is their tribute to their Indian saviours. It is so honorable!
The end of our NOLA visit, part I
We ended the day with dinner in Oceana Grill, in the heart of the French Quarter, for some traditional cajun food.
There I tried Louisiana’s cooked oysters. I did not really like them. They were too big, too meaty and tasteless. The restaurant was popular and crowded. The service was good. We tried their gumbo. It was ok!
The King cake
Before I end this post, I would like to mention that during Mardi Gras, you can try NOLA’s version of the King cake.
It is a brioche covered with icing with the Mardi Gras’ colours: purple, green and gold. Like all of the other King cakes, the NOLA King cake has a bean (usually a plastic baby Jesus) inside. I tried it as it is a typical Mardi Gras food, but I wouldn’t say I liked it. Maybe you will, though.
That was the end of my Nola trip, part I.
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ADDRESSES ON THIS POST
Marquette Hostel
2249 Carondelet St, New Orleans, LA 70130, EE. UU – Tel: +1 504-523-3014
Trolley Stop café
1923 Saint Charles Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130-5316
Mardi Gras Spot
2812 Toulouse St, New Orleans, LA 70119
Back Street Museum
1116 Henriette Delille Street in Treme, New Orleans
Admission: 10 USD
Oceana Grill
739 Conti St, Nueva Orleans, LA 70130-2220
For general information about Mardi Gras parades, click here