On June 23rd, Barcelona celebrates the magical Sant Joan tradition, a Midsummer festival.
During this night set to welcome the summer, bonfires, firecrackers, parties and the Coca de Sant Joan are the main protagonists.
The Nit de Sant Joan in Barcelona
Barcelona (and various locations of Spain) commemorates the shortest night of the year on the summer solstice, on the Nit de Sant Joan (Saint John’s Eve).
The entire city makes a celebration out of it as this night is deeply rooted in the popular culture. Districts and civic centers hold meals, parties, activities, and firecrackers in the streets.
Additionally, a lot of people spend their night at the beach. Yes, there are activities besides free movies happening on the beach during the summer.
The festival starts with the Arrival of the Canigó Flame in Sant Jaume.
The Canigó Flame
One of the main feature of the Nit de Sant Joan is the Canigó Flame.
This flame is brought from the top of the Canigó mountain and dispersed over all Catalan-speaking territories to ignite bonfires in local towns.
This tradition is a symbol of survival of the country’s culture.
Sant Joan’s traditions
Let’s start with the gastronomic tradition with the Coca de Sant Joan.
The Coca de Sant Joan
The Coca de Sant Joan is an oval-shaped yeast bread from Catalonia. There are many sorts of cocas: with marzipan, cream, decorated with pine nuts, pork crackling (yes, you read correctly. They are presented in tiny bits and gives a contrast of taste and texture) or candied fruit.
The coca is traditionally eaten during Saint John’s eve, accompanied nowadays with cava and shared among friends and family. If you are in Barcelona, try it at least once.
The bonfires and fireworks
One protagonist of Sant Joan is fire, symbolised mainly by bonfires.
On the Night of Sant Joan, the bonfires are lit when the sun goes down and go well into the night with people partying around. The most daring jump over the flames.
The fire is supposed to drive out evil spirits, purifies, protects and regenerates.
The use of fireworks is one of the spin-offs from the fire ritual. So now, it is not unusual to see people with flares, bangers, firecrackers, etc., in the streets and on the beach.
Pagan rituals
The Sant Joan celebrations have a pagan background and was centered around sun worshipping to mark the harvest season and the start a prosperous period.
With time, it eventually evolved into a Christian holiday honoring Saint John’s birth. In fact, on the night of the 23rd to the 24th, his father announced his birth with a big bonfire.
Four rituals around Sant Joan
– Jumping the bonfires is the most popular ritual during Sant Joan. It purifies and attracts good luck. To fulfill a wish jumping once can be enough. In some areas, you need to jump seven times. In others, nine.
– Have a sea bath at midnight to clean negatives vibes and recharge with good energy.
– Jump over the waves with your back to the sea seven times without falling at midnight for good luck. Jumping nine times attracts fertility.
– Burning wishes and negative thoughts: to make a wish come true, write it on a piece of paper, fold it several times and throw it in the bonfire. Do this also for the things you don’t want in your life anymore.
The beach party is on!
Instead of a neighbourhood party, Friday night was a beach night for us! As mentioned, it is a popular way to spend Sant Joan, in Barcelona. Friends or families gather on the beach, bring pareos or blankets to sit on the sand, eat picnics, and have drinks.
Then, they spend the night hanging out, chatting and listening to music from the chiringuitos (beach bars) or their playlist. In theory, there should be bonfires, but they are not allowed on the beach in Barcelona.
Our night in Nova Icaria Beach
We spent the night in Nova Icaria Beach.
It was crowded, as expected. It is part of the experience. I had a great company that night. We watched the fireworks and Chinese lanterns people sent in the sky. So beautiful! They are not a Sant Joan tradition, though.
Next to us, a group lit up a small (illegal) bonfire and juggled fireballs. Techno music was blaring from the chiringuito closer to us. The ambiance was pleasant.
The day after the Nit de Sant Joan is a bank holiday, so the parties usually last till sunrise. The clubs and bars in the city also organise special Sant Joan events. But I have always spent it at the beach.
The downsides to Sant Joan
On firecrackers
The Nit de Sant Joan is not all rosy. My biggest scare is the “petards” or firecrackers. I’m not too fond of the sound they make, and I am always scared that one escapes and hits me. They are painful if they hit and burn you – I know from experience. On the Sant Joan night, all kids and teenagers (and sometimes not-so-young folks) go crazy with them. They are so loud.
On pickpockets
Then, be careful with Barcelona’s famous pickpockets. People who party don’t always pay attention to their belongings. They leave their bags on the floor, thinking they will find them back at the end of the night. That is not counting on those pickpockets.
On my first Sant Joan, a friend of ours had her handbag stolen in front of our nose. They took the cash and trashed it in a nearby bin – the best place to check, by the way, if it ever happens to you. Luckily she found her papers back.
On bathrooms
It is also hard to find bathrooms. And it is not surprising to see people peeing behind bushes. Gardens smell like toilets. Beaches are trashed after the night when it is so simple to clean up after ourselves.
A fun and magical night anyway!
Despite these downsides, the Nit de Sant Joan is a fun and magical night to spend with friends. I am looking forward to it every year. Next year, I plan a more organised night, with a delicious picnic, an isolated beach and our music.
Find out more on the Sant Joan tradition here.